BEE Japan

Although we started off in Wakkanai as a group of six strangers…or wait, a group of Amiena, Colin, and Nick from Fukui, and three strangers from other parts of Japan, we have now formed a solid group that can ride together, laugh together, and make an amazing vegetarian feast for six using only three small camp stoves and the smallest cutting boards known to man. We have nearly identical sunburns, wear the same jerseys, and by the end of the trip, we will probably be finishing one another’s sentences. In Wakkanai, our host phrased it perfectly, “You ride the same roads, you sweat the same sweat, so you know one another’s feelings…”  In other words, we have formed an unstoppable and amazing team.

Now that we are finished cycling Hokkaido, I find myself feeling a bit sad. The people here seemed different than the people I have come to know and love in Fukui. Their accents are different, and they seemed more accustomed to meeting people on their island who were adventuring. Starting from day one in Wakkanai, we stayed at a Midori Yu Rider House, a kind of hostel for motorcyclists, where we met people from all over Japan who were doing or who had done all-Japan tours by motorcycle or hitching. Although few other circumstances could have brought us together, this group more than any other seemed to understand our desire to see all of Japan and to step outside of the daily grind. A handful of the motorcyclists met us at Cape Soya, the tip of Japan, to see us off at the beginning of our adventure. 

Following that, coming down the coast from Wakkanai, we saw the same man for three consecutive days who was walking 60 kilometers per day. He started off several hours before us each day, but at some point we would inevitably pass him. We met another man in Teshio who had started his all-Japan tour on a motorcycle, but when it broke, he simply threw it away, bought a bicycle, and continued on. 

Although I have always been aware that Japanese people are apt to do extreme things, it was so affirming to actually meet people in the midst of their great adventures before they settle into their lives working for construction companies or boring office jobs. It was also the first time I felt that I had something in common with a whole slew of people other than the English language. We had ridden the same roads, sweated the same sweat, so we could understand one another’s feelings.

But alas, we have ridden past the windmills of Wakkanai and  Teshio Town, and past the island of Rishirin that seemed to follow us for two days. We have soaked our weary bones in a half-dozen onsens and eaten our weight in tofu. We are out of the extreme end of Japan and are no longer meeting crazy adventurers. 

I have to say though that it’s not a bad thing to be back in civilization. We rode into Sapporo a few days ago where we had a presentation at Peace Boat, which has three voyages per year and visits 15-20 countries in an effort to be a “floating peace village.” Again, there was an understanding between the Peace Boat volunteers and us that we want to make a better world that future generations can actually live in. Emi and I went on a quest to pick up a package at Patagonia from Tengu–both of whom are supporting the ride. Later we went out to find peanut butter, and found a couple of tiny organic cafes tucked away into corners of the city. It was like we were on a treasure hunt to find like-minded people and companies. We rode along the extensive bike paths that run along the river through the center of the city. Although these seem like simple things, just seeing the sheer number of people out playing in the sun reminded me of how great cities can be when they are well-planned. Also, it didn’t hurt that in Odori Park, a huge park that runs through the city center, there are beer gardens open from July through August. The team enjoyed a bit of civilization in the form of weisens and pilsners to build up our strength for the rest of the journey ahead.

Next we will ride through Tohoku, where we will encounter some of the first real mountains we will have to climb on this journey as well as the first real hot weather and rain. Armed with two small jars of peanut butter and a lifetime supply of Soyjoy bars, I am certain we will make it!